Frequently Asked Questions
You will have to decide how many sections you need.
In a single section of 120 cm you can grow herbs, some lettuce and radishes for example.
If you choose 2 or 3 sections – that is a bed of 240 or 360 cm in length, you can grow herbs, lettuce and peas as well as for example radishes, carrots and leeks.
If you want to be self-sufficient in vegetables, you will need several GrowCamps. "Self-sufficient" is a broad concept, since it varies how many vegetables we eat. On average, you can say that 6-8 beds at 360 cm will be able to supply 4 people with vegetables 8-10 months a year. This assumes that you remember to sow and plant, water and fertilize regularly.
If you want to have early tomatoes and chillies, which require warmth, and at the same time outdoor vegetables like peas, leeks and radishes, it is advantageous to buy two beds. In one bed you can keep a high temperature and the other a little cooler. If outdoor vegetables get too much heat, they run to seed or get excessive leaf growth.
If you have limited space, or if you would like to have vegetables and herbs nearby on the terrace, you can choose the GrowCamp LEAN-TO model. This high model is extremely suitable for tomatoes and cucumbers.
GrowCamp has also got a series of raised beds and plant boxes without an upper structure. They are suitable for crops that are not normally attacked by pests or which take up a lot of space e.g. corn, squash, beans and potatoes. The raised beds are available in many sizes and can also be used in the greenhouse.
You can also get GrowCamp with a base. They are available in several sizes and ideal for terraces and balconies. Legs and wheels are available as an optional extra.
Raised beds without an upper structure can be assembled in less than 10 minutes. Click here to see an example of the assembly instructions.
If the ground is sloping, the bed can be dug into the soil so it stands upright and horizontally.
Wind conditions are not important, as plants can be shielded against the wind by the plastic cover. The bed should be placed in optimal sun and light conditions.
Provided it fits in with the design of the garden, it may be beneficial to place the GrowCamp with the gable ends facing east to west, so that the sides covered by the net face south and protect the plants against direct sunlight.
If you have several beds, the ideal spacing is 100 – 120 cm. You can though make do with as little as 60 cm between the beds.
Volume of soil per 120 x 120 cm with GrowWater irrigation system: 200 litres = approx. 4 bags containing 50 litres each
You should fill the bed almost to the top. Once the soil has settled it should be 5 cm from the top edge of the bed.
Alternatively, instead of filling the entire bed with soil, you can use soil trays with just 50 litres of soil. Read more.
We recommend using shop bought soil, or possibly free compost from recycling centres.
Cheap sacks of soil available from DIY stores work just fine.
Heavy, clay-based soil can make the sides of the GrowCamp bulge outwards in the middle. This is not harmful, but can be unsightly.
Shop bought soil or compost has the advantage of being free from disease, weeds and pests. It is also easier to work with, and the only tools that you need are your hands.
Later in the season, you will also benefit from growing seedlings, simply to save space in the bed.
For instance, use plant trays on the “upper shelf” of the bed and you will have new plants ready for planting out as soon as there is room below.
Read more about planting trays here.
On the other hand, when the sun begins to shine, make sure that it does not become too hot. If you do not have time to roll the plastic cover up every time it gets hot, it is better to remove it completely. Too high a temperature will result in excessive leaf growth and few or small vegetables. Generally, most plants prosper at the same temperature as human beings or maybe a little warmer.
Remember that it is important to ensure sufficient ventilation. Without ventilation you run the risk of fungus or moss growing on the soil.
You will soon run out of space if you follow our sowing guidelines. The idea is that you should harvest on an ongoing basis, including when the plants are very young. This also thins out the bed. If you cannot keep up, or if some plants spread too much, you will have get tough and cut off leaves or uproot plants altogether. Parsnips, for example, manage just fine with half the leaves cut off.
You can buy galvanized wire nets that can be used to separate various vegetables. These nets can help ensure that large plants do not take over the entire bed. They can of course also be used to support peas for example. See more here!
Wires attached between the upper structure and the bed, hold the structure in place and the soil in the bed ensures that it remains standing. Over time, the plastic parts fade because of exposure to sunlight, even though the material is UV-protected.
The plastic cover is frost-proof to minus 18°C. You must make sure that it is anchored firmly in stormy weather; otherwise gusts could possibly destroy the bed. We recommend that you remove both plastic cover and nets in the winter. It extends the lifetime of the tent parts significantly.
The adhesion of the Velcro will be reduced with age, but should last at least 4-5 years. Replacement parts can be bought through the online shop.
The plastic cover is soft and malleable at high temperatures, but stiff and more difficult to handle in cold weather. It can be cleaned using water and a little soft soap; it is then as good as new.
You can also see an example of what and when you can sow, plant and harvest throughout the year in a GrowCamp measuring 120 x 120 cm. The example is divided up into three periods of the year: Click here!
To decide what to sow and plant is probably the most difficult part of growing vegetables in a GrowCamp. There are so many possibilities. Click here to see 3 schematic examples of possible layouts.
For a killer slug, there are many obstacles that must be overcome, if it wants to invade a GrowCamp. First it has to scale a plastic board, where it is exposed to danger. Then it has to find a hole, where the Velcro on the net covering is not completely closed. It won't be able to, if it is a large slug. Then it has to survive in the bed, which after all, is relatively easy to survey – and it is therefore easily found. If nothing else, it is at least easy to sprinkle a little Ferramol around the edge of the bed (slug pellets, which are approved for organic cultivation). And this is not something the slugs will normally survive.
You can also put a 5 cm band of copper tape around the GrowCamp. Slugs get a kind of shock when they touch the copper. It doesn't provide a 100% safeguard – but it helps. We have tried confining slugs inside an area, where there was copper tape all the way around. It takes many hours before the slugs force past the copper band. They only do it, when they get hungry enough. Copper tape can be purchased here.
We have also carried out countless experiments with slug fences in a whole variety of designs. None have kept the slugs out. That is why there is no slug fence on a GrowCamp.
Unfortunately, there is nothing at the moment that can provide a 100% safeguard against slugs. But it is normally POSSIBLE to grow vegetables in a GrowCamp. And if you want to eat vegetables, you can perhaps give some thought to how those you buy have been cultivated. How have they survived the slug nightmare?