GrowWater capillary self-watering

Shown here is the mounting process for self-watering in a 62 x 120 cm bed. The principle applies to beds of all sizes.

A set of comprehensive assembly instructions can be found under each bed size. Example here.

Unwrap the self-watering bag and place in the bed..


Mount the drain hose on the water regulation tube before the bag is pulled up around the plate.


Pull the bag up around the plate and fasten.


Stuff plenty of soil in the capillary tubes.


Finished bed with tethering tubes mounted


Self-watering 90 x 44 cm bed on wheels (same size as white capillary watering boxes). Shown here with plant sack.


Large filling tube to make watering simple.


As you can see here, the self-watering boxes can also be immersed in greenhouses.

GrowWater can be mounted in all GrowCamp beds.

Bed for tomatoes


Grow your own 85 kilos of delightful tomatoes on 120 x 120 cm!

With the GrowCamp bed for tomatoes is it possible to harvest 85 kg of tomatoes on only 120 x 120 cm. The height is 180 cm incl. container for soil and water, which is 30 cm. The bed can be placed anywhere: on the ground, on tiles or terraces.

The bed is supplied with under watering. This means that you only need to get a neighbour to water once every two weeks, if you go on holiday when the plants need most water. In majority of the lifetime of the plants, is it only necessary to water every 3 – 4 weeks.

»» More about GrowWater self watering system here!

The plants thriving splendidly in a GrowCamp bed for tomatoes!


There is always water available – and mind you, in the right amount. In the outer season can the water level be reduced by using the adjusting device, then the soil is not too wet! Plants do not thrive if they get too much water.


There must be plenty of fertilizer, if you want to harvest a lot of tomatoes! If you dosing the liquid fertilizer correct, the few times you water in a season, you achieve the optimal thrive.


Many have experienced that plants do not thrive and / or tomatoes lacking taste, if there is not enough soil for roots to develop. A GrowCamp soil container can contain 180 liters of soil. This means that the plants are strong and provide plenty of delicious and delicate tomatoes. The soil does not need to be changed every year.


In a GrowCamp with cover is easy to ventilate. The plastic cover is fitted with Velcro and can therefore be opened individually. When it is very hot, you can completely remove it. In high summer, let the sunny side be half open permanently. You can unconcerned go away on weekend or holiday.

Sowing and harvesting schedule



In GrowCamp, you will be able to sow much earlier than you are used to. When the tent is covered by plastic, it protects the tiny plants from night frost. Often you will be able to start as early as February.

At the other end of season, there is also something to be gained. If you plant potatoes in July, you will be able to dig up delicious new potatoes in October – November. Carrots sown in August can be eaten from November and till early spring.

The right time for sowing and harvesting varies from year to year due to changing weather conditions.

Naturally, geographical climate differences also play an important roll. Furthermore,  numerous varieties exist of most species – each with their own characteristics as to development, sowing and harvesting.

Longer season

The specifications below are based on the seed suppliers’ guidelines combined with our  own experience gained through several years of growing under the special conditions offered by a grow tent.

As a main rule, you can sow/plant approx. one month earlier in a grow tent than in open soil due to the higher soil temperature and because the soil becomes workable much earlier since it dries faster in a raised bed. The autumn season is also extended by one month extra for sowing and harvesting.


For many crops, it will not be strictly necessary to use the plastic cover in the autumn or winter although this is specified below. However, the plants will almost always benefit from the extra protection and heat supplied by the cover.


We have prepared a schedule, which shows the overall guidelines for some of the plants you can grow in your GrowCamp, when they can be sown or planted, and when they can be harvested.

Download schedule here!


A year in a GrowCamp

Forspiring .

Pre-sprouting is traditionally done in spring to give plants with a long development time a head start. With a raised bed, you may benefit from presprouting in spring,  summer and autumn. This also applies to fast-growing crops such as lettuce and peas. The bed offers shorter growth times and thus a greater yield.

GrowCamp’s planting trays are ideal for pre-sprouting.  The watering mat ensures continuous water supply and the plants thrive in the protected environment  of the GrowCamp. In low season the planting trays can be placed in a bright and warm place indoors. See more here.


In a raised bed, plants can be positioned much closer than in a conventional garden bed and the crops can be broadcast seeded. You can sow  lengthwise or crosswise – or even in zig-zag!

In the protective environment of the raised bed, the seeds will germinate much better than outdoors. For instance, when you sow peas or beans, the ENTIRE row will come up! You do not need to soak the seeds in water first or to re-sow.

Keeping the bed tidy

With intense growth within a small area, it is important to screen off and cut back plants to prevent  them from taking up too much space or shading the  others. Keep the plants separated by racks or strings  and cut off over-abundant leaf growth. See more here.

Year round in a GrowCamp

Below shows an example of what and when you can sow, plant and harvest throughout the year in a GrowCamp measuring 120 x 120 cm. The example is divided up into three periods of the year: Click on the pictures below and see explanation:






Examples of growing



To decide what to sow and plant is probably the most difficult part of growing vegetables in a GrowCamp. There are so many possibilities.  Below is shown 3 schematic examples of possible layouts:

Greenhouse bed

Tomato bushes get about 75 cm high, but spread.  Cucumber is placed at the side of the bed and tied underneath the roof when in good growth. Remove side shoots, part of the leaves and the top shoot, when the plant becomes too big and cast too much shadow. Chili, pepper and aubergines will thrive in the bed.

Click at the picture for more information:




Herb bed

Rows of chives, parsley and dill. 8 different herbs of which some should be cut back in order not to invade the space of others. Basil and tarragon really thrives in the sheltered
environment of the grow tent.

Click at the picture for more information:



Your imagination is the limit

Mix root vegetables, lettuce, leeks, onions and herbs.
Harvest and re-sow.

Click at the picture for more information:






Potatoes in the GrowCamp


Start by chitting the potatoes, as soon as you can get hold of seed potatoes – preferably in early February. As soon as the risk of severe frost has passed, you can put them into the GrowCamp. The soil will quickly warm up when the bed is covered with plastic.

If there is a risk of frost, cover the potatoes with Fibertex or any other material that will protect the plants. You may want to light a couple of block candles inside the tent during the night – it will raise the temperature a few degrees.

When the risk of night frost has passed, you can use the “top tier” of GrowCamp’s planting trays to grow seedlings for lettuce, summer flowers and much more.


As soon as you start harvesting potatoes, you can then replace them with plants from the “top tier”. You will normally find that the time for harvesting the last potatoes, is exactly the time to sow or plant out beans – or for example chillies and bush tomatoes.

The picture below shows potatoes, which were dug up in the first few days of May.



Nu skal der forspires


Nu er det tid til forspiring. og GrowCamp har et nøje udvalgt program til formålet:

Plantebakker med vandingsdug og små potter til såning.

Klik her og se, hvornår de forskellige grøntsager kan forspires.

Hvad er forspiring

Forspiring er, når frø sås i små potter eller bakker, hvor de spirer og vokser til en passende størrelse. Derefter udplantes de på voksestedet, hvor de bliver indtil høst. Nogle vælger af pladshensyn at ompotte flere gange i forløbet, men det er ikke nødvendigt for planterne.

Hvis man sår på friland, risikerer man, at fugle og andre dyr tager frøene, eller at temperatur eller vandingsforhold gør, at spiringen ikke lykkes. Når man sår i små potter og sørger for lys, tilpas varme og jordfugtighed, spirer frøene ensartet. Det, at potterne kan flyttes, gør det nemmere at skabe optimalt miljø.

Flere grøntsager, f.eks. salat, løg, porrer, spinat og ærter kan sås indendørs allerede i februar.

Frøene spirer villigt og planterne udvikles hurtigt og kraftigt, hvis man benytter kunstigt lys. Ved brug af LED-pærer er udgiften til strøm meget beskeden.

Salat, løg, ærter, spinat og flere andre grøntsager kan udplantes i GrowCamps overdækkede højbede, så snart faren for kraftig nattefrost er overstået. Ved let nattefrost kan temperaturen hæves et par grader i bedet, hvis man benytter stearinlys om natten. Det betyder, at man kan have salat allerede i slutningen af marts måned.

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Høst flere gange

Når faren for nattefrost er overstået, kan man forspire sine planter udendørs på ”øverste etage” i GrowCampen eller i drivhuset.

Så har man konstant nye små planter parat, så snart der er ledig plads i højbedene. Mange sår salat og ærter med 14 dages mellemrum til helt hen i august. Når man forspirer og udnytter pladsen optimalt, er det muligt at få næsten dobbelt så mange hold grøntsager hver sæson.


Forspiring hvordan



Ved enkelt-frø-såning sår man et eller to frø pr. potte. De billige frø sår man to af pr. potte. Den svageste plante fjernes, hvis begge frø spirer. Ved dyre frø sår man kun ét frø pr. potte. Så må man affinde sig med, at nogle potter forbliver tomme, fordi frøet ikke spirer.


Bredsåning i potte eller bakke

Ved bredsåning menes, at der sås mange frø pr. potte eller bakke, og at planterne ikke tyndes ikke ud. Når man planter ud i GrowCampen, kan man forsigtigt løsne pottes indhold og evt. trække rødderne lidt fra hinanden, så det snarere bliver en række af planter end en firkantet klump, man sætter i jorden. Det gør, at planterne får lidt bedre plads og mere lys på voksestedet og dermed bedre mulighed for at udvikle sig.



De fleste køber så- og priklejord i stedet for at bruge egen jord fra haven. Jorden skal være fri for sygdomme og uden gødning, ellers får man ikke sunde og kraftige planter. Det er og vigtigt, at jorden er løs og fri for sten.



Frøene sås i den dybde, der angives på frøposerne. Jorden skal være fugtig, men aldrig våd. Potterne eller bakken dækkes med låg eller plastfilm, som holder på fugtigheden under spiring. Frøene tåler ikke udtørring. Sørg for at potterne ikke står i direkte sol, som kan få temperaturen til at stige voldsomt under plasten. Så snart planterne titter frem, kan overdækningen fjernes.



Løg, salat, dild, persille, spinat, ærter, hestebønner, kål og rødbede spirer bedst ved temperaturer fra 15 – 20 grader.
Majs, tomater, bønner, chili, peber, aubergine, melon, græskar og squash vil gerne have temperaturer fra 22 – 30 grader.



Start med at gøde vandet så snart, der er kommet flere sæt blade udover kimbladene. Start med en svag opløsning og forøg gradvist til den opløsning, der angives på emballagen. Ærter og bønner producerer selv kvælstof og skal derfor ikke have gødning.


Forhold mellem lys, varme, gødning og vand

Forholdet mellem temperatur, lys, vand og gødning er afgørende for spiring og vækst. Høj temperatur og meget lys kræver meget vand og gødning. Lav temperatur kræver mindre lys, vand og gødning. Ved sparsomt lys skal temperaturen være lav, ellers får man ranglede og svage planter.